I only feel the need to use this Blue, Fine Grade version of the AutoScrub system. The more aggressive options aren't necessary. This Pad, the AutoScrub Sponge, and Adam's Clay Bar are what I use for Step 3 of the Decon process. You can use soap and water, detail spray, or a dedicated lube like Glide for this "mechanical" part of removing contaminants that are embedded in the surface of the clear coat.
I'm not sure how many years I've had my original pad, but it's more than 5 years old. So despite the initial expense, these last a really long time. If you drop it, just rinse it and keep going. I've certainly spent more on clay bars over that time frame than I have on this. I equate this to being about 90% as effective as clay, but much quicker and easier to work with.
You can use this on your polisher. That is how it was originally designed to be used, but I like to attach the optional 5 3/4" Velcro Hand Strap and use it manually.
You could watch the video above if you'd like, but I use this like so. This is the third step of the decon process.
- Attach the NanoSkin Velcro Hand Strap.
- When new, the pad needs to be broken in by cleaning the glass.
- Immediately after "chemically" decontaminating the car with Optimum Ferrex, rinse the car thoroughly. I use deionized water.
- I spray 7:1 diluted Glide liberally, soaking the panels you want to decontaminate. I usually start on the glass then work my way from top to bottom.
- Use this Pad, AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge, or Adam's Clay Bar on the surface of the paint to remove the stuff you don't want there. Glide is the lubricant we need to reduce marring and scratching during this step.
- It really doesn't matter if Glide dries on the paint because you are going to be polishing, but I like to rinse off after I've done a few panels. It will dry a bit streaky if you let it.
- Rinse thoroughly and dry the car. I always rinse with deionized water.
Do not leave this under direct sunlight for long periods of time.
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